Just another weekend in Zermatt with more skiing adventures to report.  Here are the highlights:

Day 1 Skiing: We caught an early train from Basel on Saturday morning, and by 12:30, we were in Zermatt on a gondola to the top of the mountain.  The weather was extremely cold (notice the ice in Sarah’s hair), but we got some really nice views of the Matterhorn.  That afternoon, we actually caught the last lift to the very top, and we skied all the way back to town.  It may have only been a half day out on the slopes, but we ended up skiing about 17 miles!

Icy Hair

Sunset Views of the Matterhorn

That evening, we discovered a new favorite restaurant, and after what felt like a full day of skiing, we didn’t hesitate to treat ourselves to big, juicy steaks.  ‘Tis the season (to be fatties).

Day 2 Skiing: The next day was thankfully much warmer … and much more snowy (this turned out to be both good and bad).  Unfortunately, the weather caused reduced visibility, but on the flip side,  it also resulted in a reduced number of people out on the slopes.  We pretty much had the mountain to ourselves.  For lunch that day, we skied into one of our absolute favorite spots, Chez Vrony (a mid-mountain restaurant recognized in the Michelin Guide), where we had a cozy meal and an impromptu snowball ambush.

The boys preparing to attack

Frozen Faces

Lunch at Chez Vrony

By early afternoon, the snow was really coming down – so much so that our train down the mountain was delayed.  Consequently, we missed a few connections, but we eventually made it home safe and sound (and spent).

It may not officially be winter yet, but boy, does it feel like it!  The mountains have been getting buried in snow (we’ve even had a little here in Basel), and we haven’t seen temperatures above freezing in days.  Some people may see this turn of weather as an excuse to hunker down, but you know us – we can’t sit still.  In spite of (or maybe because of) the cold weather, we decided to head to Engleberg this past weekend for some more skiing adventures.

Early Sunday morning, we met up with our buddy, Nick, at the base of the mountain.  A quick 30-minute gondola ride brought us above the sea of clouds to the peak where it was – brace yourselves –  negative 18 degrees Celcius (about -1 Fahrenheit).  It was quite possibly the coldest temperatures we have experienced while skiing.  Our toes were numb.  Our fingers were frozen.  It was so cold that our teeth hurt and our phones stopped working.   Despite the chilly temperatures, we had a great time out on the slopes.  Even for early December, the conditions were quite good – a fact we hope is a harbinger of a great ski season ahead.

Top of Mount Titlis

Note the cloud line

Thanksgiving

We hope that all of you readers back home had fabulous Thanksgivings.  This year, we were lucky enough to share the holiday with Chris’s parents – a nice change from last year’s celebrations at the Monaco Casino (obviously fun but a bit lacking in tradition).  George and Debbie arrived Thanksgiving morning, and despite some serious jet-lag, they were excited to tour around Basel for general sight-seeing.

Once Chris got off work that day (sadly Switzerland doesn’t recognize the best American holiday), he took his parents to the opening ceremony for the Christmas markets.  There’s nothing quite like a big tree, cold weather, and carols to get one in the mood for the holiday season.  However spirited they felt, there were inclined to re-wind because Sarah insisted on cooking a big, Thanksgiving meal that evening.  Though many of the ingredients were difficult to find and/or crazy expensive (a can of pumpkin ran about $8), we had ourselves a feast and relished in the comfort of family, friends, and tradition.

Favorite Spots: While George and Debbie were on this side of the pond, we wanted to show them some of our favorite spots around beautiful Switzerland:

• Zermatt: Even if you’re not a skier, Zermatt is an impressive destination.  The town itself is rather quaint, and the mountains are simply magnificent.  After a brief lost-luggage-oopsie-daisy on the train, we arrived in Zermatt; we had just enough time for a casual lunch and a quick town “tour” before heading up the mountain.  The sunset, the lighting, the mountains, the snow, all made for some pretty unforgettable views.  That evening progressed to a classic Swiss dinner (complete with fondue) and ended at one of our favorite bars featuring over-priced cocktails, mediocre live music,  and an audience looking to party.
• Chexbres: The next day, we headed to the French side of Switzerland for views of mountains/Lake Geneva and, of course, wine.  We actually went back to a vineyard we have visited many times before (Domaine Bovy), and much to our surprise, we had a totally different experience.  For the first time, we sat with the head winemaker and had a very personal tasting.  We talked about each wine, the history of the vineyard, and their recent harvest.  The real cherry on top, though, was visiting their wine cellar.  Not only were we able to see (and taste) barrels upon barrels of aging wine, but we learned about the history of the family’s wine-making production through the paintings (pictured below). Most of the art was completed by the current winemaker’s great-grandfather, and each one told a unique story of their family business and life. 
  

  
• Mürren: Originally, we had planned to take a short day trip to Interlaken, but upon arrival, we learned that the funicular to the top was closed for the season.  None of us had worn appropriate hiking shoes [Read: we didn’t really want to hike uphill for 2 hours in the snow], so we settled on plan B and headed to the nearby town of Murren.  Plan B added an extra hour each way to our day trip; however, the time was well worth the investment.  Not only did we get some awesome views of the Alps, but we also had the most beautiful train ride through a snowy forest. 
  

  

Final Thoughts: Mama Milne and Papa George were only here for four days, but we really made the most of it.  We visited the famous Matterhorn, tasted wine in the UNESCO World Heritage acclaimed Lavaux Valley, took a train through a winter wonderland, and palled around towns abuzz with the Christmas spirit.  Though they came for Thanksgiving, we really got to celebrate two holidays with their visit – we stuffed ourselves with food on Thursday, and, by Sunday, we were visiting Christmas markets and exchanging gifts.

And we’re back in winter sports season, ladies and gents!

Last weekend, we met up with some friends in Zermatt for a day of skiing.  Only a small part of the mountain is actually open at the moment, but anxious to get back out there, we gave it a go.  We were all pleasantly surprised by the conditions – well-maintained slopes and even enough powder in places that some people in our group went off-piste … a luxury enjoyed when skiing on top of a glacier above 12,000 feet.  We realize that these are some real first-world problems, but we are seriously ruined for skiing back in the states.

We couldn’t have asked for better weather, we were surrounded by great friends, Chris broke his speed record (he has a helmet now), Sarah didn’t fall, and at the end of the day, we had a fabulous apres ski (complete with ski boots) at one of our favorite pubs in Switzerland.  The ski season is officially off to a great start.

We’ve been “laying low” in Switzerland the past few weekends, and in doing so, we have neglected our blog.  Sorry, moms.  Here’s a quick recap of our past 3 weekend adventures:

Weekend 1: Oktoberfest  (part II)

Having already purchased the Dirndl and Lederhosen for Munich’s Oktoberfest, we figured we would put them to good use by attending another (though smaller) one in the little Swiss town of Winterthur.  Though the venue and crowd were drastically smaller, the beers were just as big and the crowd was just as rowdy.  We had an absolute blast dancing on tables with the Zurich crew and catching up with Mike and Mary back at their apartment that evening.  Now that it’s November, it time to put away our Oktoberfest gear … until next year.

Weekend 2: Basel Herbstmesse 

For the past 540 years (no, that’s not a typo), Basel has hosted an annual autumn festival which has grown to consume most of the town and now lasts nearly 3 weeks.  Practically every square/park features some aspect of the festival: carnival rides, artisanal booths, homeware vendors, food stalls, you name it.  Our second weekend in Switzerland was spent wandering the town, riding a few carnival rides (mostly Sarah’s idea), eating tasty street food (meat on a stick and lots of cheese), and attending the Weinmessa (wine tasting from vendors far and wide).  We purchased 2 cases of wine which should be delivered right to our front door.  It’s almost too easy.

Weekend 3: Lugano

It is really starting to feel like winter here – it’s cold, it’s rainy, and we haven’t seen the sun in days.  By Thursday, we were both fed up with the weather and decided that a change of scenery was in order.  We literally searched for any towns in Switzerland that would be sunny over the weekend, and we found … only one.  Excited for some sunshine and non-German food, we packed our bags and headed to Lugano (located on the Italian side of Switzerland) on Saturday morning.  We arrived around mid-day and though it wasn’t especially warm, we spent the afternoon walking around the town and enjoying the sunshine in outdoor cafes.  That evening was especially perfect – we bounced between wine bars, found a family run pasta restaurant, and simply enjoyed some quality time together.

Mount Bre (Left) & Lake Lugano

The next day, we decided to take a bus to the top of Mount Bre (just outside of Lugano).  We had a difficult time finding the bus stop which sadly eliminated our time for an actual breakfast.  Instead, we settled on the only thing available from the nearest convenience store – snickers bars (obviously delicious but far from healthy).  The early morning wasn’t quite what we had envisioned, but the views from the top made it all worth it!

The mountains of Switzerland and currently getting buried in snow, so our three weeks of “low-key” adventures were exactly what we needed before ramping up for the ski season.  Finger’s crossed, we will be able to hit the slopes this weekend.

Part II of Chris’s birthday celebrations were in Barcelona, and though we had been there about 7 years earlier, we were excited to see it again.

Great Friends

One of the biggest factors in our decision to celebrate C’s 30th birthday in Barcelona was friends.  A few months back, we learned that our college friend, Rob, would be traveling to Spain with his girlfriend and her twin.  Additionally, a very dear friend, Erica, decided that a trip to Europe was in order, and despite living on the west coast, she braved the 13-hour flight for a visit.  We had an absolute blast eating and drinking our way through the city (so much so, that we stayed out way past our bedtimes a couple of nights).  Traveling and exploring are always fun, but it is best done with friends.

Arc de Triomf with Erica

Parc Guelli with Rob, Kristen, & Ally

Famous Sites

To be totally honest, we don’t remember a lot of our first visit to Barcelona.  We know that we saw the outside of the Sagrada Familia, we know we went to the beach for a day, and sadly, that’s about it.  This time, we did a much better job of checking-off the famous sites in Barcelona.

• Sagrada Familia: This time we actually made it inside the Sagrada Familia Basilica, and we were happy we did – it is truly unlike any other cathedral we have ever seen.  It is a unique combination of Gothic and Art Nouveau architecture which incorporates elements of nature into a structural design in ways we could not even imagine.  We enjoyed learning about the history, the designing architect (Antoni Gaudi), and the basilica’s future completion (not scheduled until 2026).
• Barcelona Beaches: It is officially autumn in Switzerland, but Barcelona still felt like late summer.  We enjoyed 75-degree weather, lots of sunshine, a few hours on the beach, and a long, sweet drink of summer before heading into the cold and dark months of winter.
• Guell Park: Intended as a playground for wealthy people in the early 1900s, this park is the embodiment of surrealism.   The park is built into the side of a hill, features some of the most bizarre and beautiful mosaics, and is a perfect dream world.  Most impressively, the “hike” to the top of the hill on which the park is built gives unobstructed, gorgeous views of the city below.

Fun Mosaics

Barcelona Beach

Parc Guelli

More Mosaics

Amazing Food

The last time we were in Spain, we both thought the food was terrible.  Perhaps we ate at tourist traps, or perhaps our 22-year old taste buds preferred something less adventurous.  Whatever the reason, we were clearly wrong.  The food in Barcelona was some of the best food we have had in a long, long time.

Michelin star restaurant number 1: TICKETS Bar and Restaurant

Holy Moly.  This place.  TICKETS is a recently Michelin Starred restaurant specializing in tapas. The place is so “hot” that despite two months of advance notice, our 6:30pm reservation was the best that we could do.  It was totally worth it.  We splurged for the “TICKETS Experience” where they basically just bring you food until you tell them to stop.  After about 10 courses of some of the most creative and amazing food (spherefied olive oil with chicken fat chips, avocado and cumin jelly with crab, and oysters with purple shiso vinegar… just to name a few), we were stuffed.  We didn’t realize that after the savory tapas, they basically take you to Willy Wonka’s Factory where the tapas experience starts all over again.  After 2 rounds of desserts, we were starting to resemble Violet Beauregarde and had to be rolled it.  It was an experience we will not soon forget.

Michelin star number restaurant 2: Montiel Espai Gastronòmic

For our second dinner, we headed to another Michelin Star restaurant known for their locally-sourced ingredients.  Even though we had a few picky eaters in the group, we all settled [read: C & Frau insisted] on the 9-course tasting menu which included three rounds of appetizers, three rounds of mains, and three rounds of desserts.  Everything was absolutely perfect, and just as with the night before, we left with full bellies and happy hearts.

Almost too pretty to eat

Chris in Willy Wonka’s Factory

Final Thoughts

The execution of Chris’s birthdays past has a varied track record, but the celebration of this round number is one that will go down in the books as a resounding success. Chris could not be more grateful for the friends who made the trip and the Frau who made it all possible.

Ladies and gentlemen, Chris has done it.  He has made it to the big 3-0.  A milestone this momentous calls for a celebration to match, and thus, we [Read: Sarah] decided that two weekends of birthday were in order.  Part I highlights include:

1. Fun and silliness at home:  Even though Chris’s actual birthday was celebrated at home with only the two of us, Sarah still hung streamers, blew up balloons, and made a ridiculous birthday hat.  No matter how old we get, we still believe that every birthday is an excuse to embrace our inner child.  That said, a clown/petting zoo seemed pretty creepy for a 30-year-old-man, so we settled on a home-cooked meal and a whiskey tasting instead.

2. Birthday video: Originally, Chris had toyed with the idea of making a trip back to The States for his 30th.  Unfortunately, due to work and the impending wedding season we will have next summer, we decided against it; however, Sarah was still eager to give Chris a taste of home.  With the help of friends and family from far and wide, she was able to compile a video with birthday wishes.  A big thank you goes out to everyone who made a submission – you helped make this birthday a very special one indeed.  Should you be curious, here’s the video link.

3. Shopping in Milan: Chris is “all-man.”  He loves sports of all kinds, is a hairy dude (increasingly true), can fix most things, refuses to ask for directions, and takes pride in his “inability” to cook/clean/do laundry.  Chris does enjoy dressing sharp, but he definitely still shops like a man.  There’s no “let’s see what other stores have” or “I’m just browsing.”  He wants to go once a year, have a little Italian lady shop for him, spend a bunch of money, and be done.   Thanks to a very generous gift from Mama Milne and Papa George, he was able to do just that.  We trained down to Milan for the weekend and headed to a store we had discovered while there in April.  Shockingly, the same shop attendant was working on Saturday.  Even more shockingly, she remembered us and was excited to play “Ken Doll” with Chris again.  Though Sarah had allotted an entire day for shopping, Chis was done after two hours and one store.  Great success.

Up next is Part II: Barcelona where we plan to meet friends, drink wine, eat gazpacho, and continue to ring in the glory of thirty.

Sarah’s count is only at a measly three, but Chris’s count for Munich Oktoberfest is now at a staggering seven! Some might say that this is simply too many times, but those people are clearly wrong.  Anyone who has experienced the glory of Oktoberfest understands what draws us back year after year.  There’s simply nothing like it.  Millions of people get together.  They drink.  They eat.  They share stories.  They dance on tables and sing Sweet Caroline.  They pretend, even if only for a day, that they are part of the great, hospitable Bavarian culture.

We will spare you the full breakdown of the weekend and instead focus on the highlights of what made this trip unique.

1. Small world:  When we went on Yacht Week back in July, we made friends with a couple (Cori and Bennett) who are originally from DC.  They too are now living abroad (in Stuttgart), and having bonded over being expats, we decided to exchange emails. At the time, we had little expectations that we would ever see them again; however, the world continues to surprise us.  We were thrilled to learn that they would be in Munich for Oktoberfest during the same weekend, and we were even more shocked that we were actually able to meet up.  As if the world didn’t already feel small, we also learned that Jessi (who joined after a week’s worth of work in Germany) went to college with Bennett.  The whole “six degrees of separation” theory is becoming less of a theory and more of a law.

2. BMW showroom and museum: As near 30-year olds, we can’t drink delicious beer all weekend, so on Friday, we headed to the BMW showroom and museum.  Sadly, we weren’t able to secure tickets for the plant tour, but we still enjoyed learning the history of the company and seeing both old and new BMW products.  Fun fact – BMW actually started as an aircraft engine manufacturer.  It wasn’t until 1929 that they acquired another company known for automobile engines.  Our ultimate take: BMW loves to toot its own horn, but for good reason.  They do some really awesome stuff with cars and motorcycles.

3. Carny Stuff: We’ve always ridden the bumper cars after a day at the tents; however, this time, we channeled our inner-carny and tried a few additional rides including big slides (one Sarah’s favorites) and swings (yes, we know that it’s a death trap but you can’t beat the views).  There’s nothing like a big fair to bring out the little child in us all.

Swings!

High above Munich

Waiting in line for slides

Post bumper cars

We can hardly believe it ourselves, but this past Sunday marked our 6 year wedding anniversary, and we decided to head to a fancy spa resort in Adelboden, Switzerland to commemorate.  The weekend was truly a perfect balance of relaxation and adventure.

Relaxation: 

Our constant travels usually result in days jam-packed with activities and exploration, so it was with pleasure to stay in bed a little later than usual on both Saturday and Sunday mornings.

We also spent a decent amount of time in the spa.  The facilities were lovely and the views from their outdoor heated pool overlooking the alps were impressive, to say the least.  Additionally, we sprung for deep-tissue back massages, though in all honesty, they were so “deep” that we are both still a little sore (but in a good way).

Adventure:

We are both busybodies and can only sit still for so long before we start to twitch, so spending an entire 48 hours sitting around the hotel and spa was out of the question.  We both agreed that a low-key outing for some fresh air and fabulous views would do us well, and our one-hour hike/walk to the base of the mountain took us by a few villages, many lovely rivers, and lots of cows.  It was seriously the stuff from postcards.

Wanting to have lunch at the top of the mountain but unsure of how long it would take to hike (aka we were feeling a little lazy), we took the gondola up.  A tasty lunch and a big beer later, we were ready for something a bit more challenging, and thus decided to hike down.  It was more difficult than either of us had expected (very muddy, extremely steep, and lots of loose rocks), but we were extremely happy with the decision.  The path led us right by a huge waterfall and offered fabulous views of the valley below.  Plus it was the first time in a while that we didn’t get turned around – 1 point for the good guys!

A lot has certainly changed in our six years of marriage: we both have careers, we live in a new country, we are home-owners, we sometimes prefer our couch to a crowded bar, we are well-traveled, and we no longer find it acceptable to duck-tape beers to our hands and call it a game.

By the same token, there are many things that have remained the same: we still take pleasure in activities of any kind; we continue to push each other to be better, kinder, stronger people; we make each other laugh so hard our cheeks hurt; we are frank and honest with each other, even when it isn’t convenient; and, above all, we love each other a very large sum.  Corny, we know, but still true.